What are the best customizable routers nowadays?
Was rather shocked to find BT hubs don't allow you to change DNS servers anymore and force you to use their own ones, so I can't properly setup adguard.
What routers are people using now that are reliable and will let me control my own network configuration
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What AP would you recommend for use with it?
Honestly, your average SOHO router can easily be turned into a good enough access point. I'm using an old Asus router for mine. A Ubiquity access point is also a solid choice for cost vs performance. Or give TP-Link a look, they're always a decent bet for wireless.
I have a ubiquity commerical AP, though only because I happened to get it for free. It's probably overkill for home needs.