What are the best customizable routers nowadays?
Was rather shocked to find BT hubs don't allow you to change DNS servers anymore and force you to use their own ones, so I can't properly setup adguard.
What routers are people using now that are reliable and will let me control my own network configuration
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Just wanna put in a good word about GL-iNet routers ... they are more travel- and pro-sumer focused than a lot of what's been mentioned here. They run a proprietary front end on top of OpenWRT, but if you don't like that, most of them have full support in vanilla OpenWRT.
These are definitely more for the tinkerer market, their documentation and firmware can have quirks, but that being said (and as somebody who wouldbe wary at that caveat) I have been using GLi routers with manufacturer firmware as a daily driver for 3+ years and once you get them set up they are very solid.
Might be a good option for the digital nomads among us who need a smaller device which can connect to a host network and then send all traffic over a VPN with very easy setup.
Do they have mesh options?
Good question, I'm not entirely sure as I have never used mesh features per se.
I do currently use a GLi Creta as a wifi extender to a GLi Slate AX, but that's likely not what you're asking about (I believe it's a layer 3 (?) bridge from WWAN to WLAN/LAN). It does work pretty well in this role, all factors considered.