What are the best customizable routers nowadays?
Was rather shocked to find BT hubs don't allow you to change DNS servers anymore and force you to use their own ones, so I can't properly setup adguard.
What routers are people using now that are reliable and will let me control my own network configuration
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Check out the OpenWRT Table of Hardware, it has a list of firmware mod-able off the shelf WiFi routers that work with, you guessed it, OpenWRT. It's rather versatile as it's Linux based and can handle VLANs, multiple SSIDs, and of course, you can change the DNS servers.
This!
If you want a Linux router instead of a BSD one for hardware compatibility, it will run on anything pfsense or opnsense will run and on much much more.